SURFING The art of wave riding is a blend of total athleticism and the comprehension of the beauty and power of nature. Surfing is water sport, in which surfer or wave rider rides on the forward face of a moving wave, which is usually carrying the surfer towards the shore. Waves that are suitable for surfing are usually and primarily found in the ocean, but can also be found in lakes or in rivers in the form of standing wave or tidal bore. However, nowadays surfers can also ride artificial waves. We are riding waves with surfboard and power of our own hands. Surfing is also one of the few sports that create its own culture and lifestyle. First thing, noticing when learning how to surf is that surfing is not as easy as it may seem. Learning to surf is quite time-consuming process. But it is always fun. Moreover, not only of the techniques necessary to win quite a lot of other knowledge that helps us to more safe movement in the ocean, choosing the right conditions, knowledge of the weather, etc …
History Surfing is actually one of the oldest sports. It originates from Polynesia where it appeared shortly after the beginning of our era. From there it spread to Hawaii and from there around the world. The act of riding waves with a wooden board originated in Western Polynesia over three thousand years ago. The first surfers were fishermen who discovered riding waves as an efficient method of getting to shore with their catch. Eventually catching waves developed from being part of everyday work to being a pastime. This change revolutionized surfing. There is no exact record of when stand-up surfing became a sport. It is known that during the 15th century, kings, queens and people of the Sandwich Isles were big into the sport of “he’enalu” or wave-sliding, in old Hawaiian. Early historical records of surfing appear in the late 1700s, when Europeans and Polynesians made first contact in Tahiti. Navigator Captain James Cook described how a Tahitian caught waves with his outrigger canoe just for the fun of it. The first Polynesian settlers to land in Hawaii were most likely skilled in simple surfing, and after a few hundred years of riding the waves of Hawaii, the well-known Hawaiian form of the sport emerged. The Hawaiians who surfed, the ali’i or high class, claimed the highest reputation for skill with boards on waves. They developed their own prayers, board shapers, wood and beaches where a select few could surf with people of their talent. No one dared to drop in on their wave in fear of getting punished and possible dying. The surfboards underwent a sacred ritual before construction. Only three types of trees were picked to make a board. The board maker would dig up the tree and around the roots place fish in the hole as an offering to the gods for the tree. The process of shaping then began.
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